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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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OF 



XHH PROGRESS OP 



COTTON MANUFACTURE 



IN 



THE UNITED STATES. 



A REVIEW 



THE PROGRESS OF 



COTTON MANUFACTURE 



THE UNITED STATES. 



(PREPARED, BY REQUEST, FOR THE EDITION OF THE " ENCYCLOP.EDIA BRITANNICA" 

NOW IN PRESS). 



ALFRED B. ^SH EPPERSON, 

Author of 

THE STANDARD TELEGRAPHIC CIPHER CODE FOR THE COTTON TRADE,' 

"THE ABRIDGED COTTON CIPHER CODE." 

"COTTON FACTS," ETC., ETC. 



"'ry^, U-^?^ 



Printed, not Published. 
NEW YORK, 

d883. 






COPYRIGHT, 1883, BY 
ALFRED B. SHEPPERSON. 



1 



3'1'SB5 



The great perfection attained in Cotton Manufacture, and its won- 
derful development within the past century, are due to the inventive 
skill and untiring energy of Great Britain and the United States. 

The first machine for spinning cotton by rollers was invented by 
John Wyatt, of Birmingham, England, and patented in 1738, in the 
name of his partner, Lewis Paul. This machinery was put in operation 
in Birmingham in I74i,and in Northampton in 1743; but, through im- 
perfections in some of its details, it failed to prove profitable, and its 
use was finally abandoned. To Sir Richard Arkwright has generally 
been ascribed the credit of having first invented the method of spin- 
ning by rollers, but an investigation of the matter proves beyond ques- 
tion that the principles of Arkwright's machines were known and 
patented over thirty years before he applied for a patent. Arkwright's 
machinery was far more perfect than that of John Wj^att, but the same 
principles were involved. In 1764, James Hargreaves, a v/eaver of 
Lancashire, invented the "Spinning-Jenny "; and in 1769, Richard Ark- 
wright, of Nottingham, obtained a patent for his "spinning frame," 
which was the most perfect machine for spinning cotton which had been 
invented up to that time. 

In 1779, Samuel Crompton, a weaver of Bolton, after five years of 
study and experiment, completed a machine known as the " mule- 
jenny." This was a most valuable addition to the machinery then in 
use for cotton manufacture, as it combined the principles of Hargreaves' 
and Arkwright's machines, and applied them in a more practical and 
useful manner. The invention of Crompton was not patented, and his 
machines soon came into general use by English spinners, who made 
various improvements in minor details, which increased their efficiency. 
In 1785, the patent granted to Arkwright for his " spinning frame " was 
set aside, and the use of his inventions thrown open to the public. In 
this year, also, the first adaptation of the steam engine to cotton manu- 
facture was made, by the erection of one of Boulton & Watt's engines 
in the carding and spinning factory of the Messrs. Robinson, in Not- 
tinghamshire, England. During the same year of 1785, already made 
memorable in the history of cotton manufacture, the power-loom was 
invented by Rev. Dr. Edmund Cartwright, of Kent. Rude and cumber- 
some at first, it was greatly improved by 1787, when it soon superseded 
the hand-looms, and caused the establishment of the factory system in 
place of the custom which had previously prevailed, of weaving by 
hand-looms at the homes of the workmen. 

The events clustering around the period of 1785 to 1787, gave to the 
cotton manufacturing industry of England a wonderful impetus, and 
the present factory system dates from this time. 

In 1793 the " Saw Cotton Gin " was invented by Eli Whitney, a citizen 
of- Georgia, but a native of Massachusetts. The importance of this 



invention to the cotton manufacture cannot be over-estimated, for it was 
the one thing needed to insure a sufficient supply of the raw material 
to meet the requirements of the increasing machinery for spinning and 
weaving. 

The result of Whitney's invention was the rapid extension of cotton 
culture in the United States, and its permanent establishment as one of 
the leading staples of the country. Previous to the introduction of 
the "saw gin," lint cotton had been separated from its seed by the use 
of what were known as "roller gins." The process was almost identi- 
cal with that in use in India centuries ago, and was slow and expensive. 
The new gin separated lint from seed in much less time, and at much 
less cost, than had been done by the old plan. As it also increased the 
quantity of lint made from "seed cotton " (or cot'on as gathered from 
the field), it is easy to see how Whitney's invention greatly enhanced 
the planters' profits, and thus gave so great a stimulus to cotton 
planting. 

In 1775 a stock company was formed in Philadelphia for the purpose 
of spinning cotton by machinery, and this was probably the first at- 
tempt at cotton manufacture in the United States. In 1780 a company 
was organized at Worcester, Mass., for spinning and weaving cotton ; 
and it met with a fair measure of success. The first regular cotton mill 
in the United States, operated upon the factory system, was erected in 
1787 at Beverly, Mass., by a stock company, at an outlay of about 
^4,000. The public felt so great an interest in the success of this en- 
terprise that the Legislature of Massachusetts assisted the company by 
several grants of money, amounting in all to ^1,500. In the previous 
year (1786), machinery for carding, roving and spinning cotton, after 
Arkwright's and other English methods, had been erected for Col. Hugh 
Orr, at East Bridgewater, Mass., by Robert and Alexander Barr, ma- 
chinists, from Scotland. This machinery was designed chiefly for the 
purpose of giving practical information to those interested in the sub- 
ject of cotton manufacture. To this end, notice was given in the news- 
papers that the machines could be seen and examined by the public, 
and that the manner of working them would be explained. 

The factory started at Beverly, in 1787, was speedily followed by 
others at Providence, R. I., New Haven and Norwich, Conn., Philadel- 
phia, New York, Boston and other places, in about the order named. 
These factories were all employed in carding, roving and spinning cot- 
ton by machinery. The weaving of cloth was done on hand-looms until 
1813, when Messrs. Francis C. Lowell, Patrick T. Jackson and Paul 
Moody started at Waltham, Mass., the first Mill in the United States, in 
which power-looms were used. The power-loom, invented by Dr. 
Cartwright, had been in use in the British mills since 1787; but, in 
those days, intercourse with the mother country was so restricted, and 



5 

the secrets of inventors so jealously guarded, that its principles and 
mode of construction were unknown in America. 

As early as 1790, yarns and cloth were manufactured in considerable 
quantities at Statesburg, South Carolina. In 1822 the first cotton mill 
was erected in Lowell, Mass., now the largest cotton manufacturing 
centre in America. In 1825 there were in the United States about 
800,000 spindles, which consumed during that year 100,000 bales of cot- 
ton. Until 1845 the cotton manufacture was chiefly confined to the 
Eastern and Middle States. There were very few regular cotton mills 
at the South ; but in that section a small quantity of cotton was yearly 
spun by the old-fashioned spinning-jennies, and woven on hand-looms 
for home and plantation use. Even to the present time, this primitive 
method of manufacture is followed in some portions of the South. 

A review of the growth of cotton manufacture shows that this great 
industry has kept pace with the rapid progress of American develop- 
ment. Fifty years ago there were in operation in the United States, 
795 mills, running 1,250,000 spindles, and employing 57,500 operatives. 
These mills took from the crop of 1831-32, only 174,000 bales of cotton. 
In 1882 there were fully 12,150,000 spindles, giving employment to over 
200,000 persons. Their takings from the crop of 1881-82 were 1,933,000 
bales. 

A comparison of the progress of cotton manufacture in Great Britain 
and in the United States is interesting. 

In 1850-51, Brit, mills worked 21,000,000 spindles, and took 1,667,000 B./C 

In 1860-61, " " " 33,000,000 " " 2,635,000 " 

In 1871-72, " " " 36,000,000 " " 3,132,000 " 

In 1881-82, " " " 41,000,000 " " 3,439,000 " 

The record of the United States shows even better results. 

In 1850-51, U. S. mills worked 3,600,000 spindles, and took 464,000 B./C. 
In 1860-61, " " " 5,200,000 " " 839,000 " 

In 1871-72, " " " 7,500,000 " " 1,097,000 " 

In 1881-S2, " " " 12,150,000 " " 1,933,000 " 

It will be seen that between 1851 and 1882, British spinners increased 
their spindles 95 per cent., and their consumption of cotton 106 per cent.; 
while American spinners increased their spindles 237 per cent., and their 
consumption of cotton 317 per cent. The ratio of increase has been 
more than twice as great in the United States as in Great Britain. 

According to the census of 1880, there were in the United States 
at that time, 756 regular cotton mills, representing a capital of 
$208,280,346, and running 10,653,435 spindles. The following are the 
details of the several States for the census year ending June ist, 1880. 



Maine 

New Hampshire. 

Vermont 

Massachusetts . . 
Rhode Island. . . 

Connecticut 

New York 

New Jersey 

Pennsylvania. . . . 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Ohio 

Indiana 

Illinois 

Michigan 

Wisconsin 

Minnesota 

Utah 



Total in Northern States. 



' Nurnler 

0/ 

Spincles. 

695,924 

944.053 

55.0S1 

4,236,084 

1,764,569 

936,376 

561.658 

232,221 

425.391 

46,188 

125,706 

'3.328 

33.396 

4,860 

5,100 

10,000 

1,708 

432 



10,092,075 



Bales of 

Cotton 

Consumed. 

112,381 I 

157.673 i 

7,404 ' 

574.857 

167,480 

109.703 

64,614 

21,069 

83.997 i 

7,512 

51.537 

5.323 

11,558 

2,261 i 

600 

3.173 
400 

54 
-I- 



Capital 
Invested. 



$15,292,078 

19,877,084 

936,096 

72,291,601 

28,047,331 

20 310,500 

1 1,^99,638 

3,807,750 

10,331,985 

874,570 

4,600,816 

670,000 

1 ,090,000 

240,000 

20,000 

200,000 

5,000 

20,000 



1,381,596 |$i9o,oi4,449 



Virginia 

North Carolina. 
South Carolina. 

Georgia , 

Florida 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Louisiana 

Texas 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

Arkansas 

Missouri 



Total in Southern States. 
Grand Total 



49 

14 

40 

I 

16 

8 

2 



3 
16 



164 



756 



44,340 

92,385 

82,334 

198,656 

816 

49.432 

18,568 

6,096 

2,648 

9,022 

35.736 

2,015 

19.312 



561,360 



10,653,435 



1 1,461 

27,642 

33.624 

71.389 

350 

14,702 

6,411 

1.358 

246 

4.050 

10,436 

680 

6,399 



188,748 



$1,190,100 

2,855,800 

2,776,100 

6,348,657 

1 1,000 

1,246,500 

1,122,140 

195,000 

50,000 

360,000 

1,145,600 

75,000 

890,000 

$18,265,897 



1,570,344 $208,280,346 



These figures refer to regular cotton mills, manufacturing yarns and 
fabrics made entirely of cotton. Besides the cotton consumed in these 
establishments, 99,611 bales were used in woolen mills, hosiery mills, 
and felt and hat factories; 40,597 bales, in the manufacture of mixed 
fabrics, not sold as cotton goods, but composed largely of cotton ; and 
about 15,000 bales, in mattresses and upholstery work. These additions 
to the figures for the cotton mills proper, would make the entire cotton 
consumption of the country for the census year, 1,725,552 bales. 



From careful investigation, it has been estimated by Mr. Edward 
Atkinson, special agent of the census for cotton manufactures, that 
30,231 bales more were consumed during the commercial year ending 
August 31st, 1880, than during the year covered by the census returns 
(ending June ist, 1880). This, added to the census figures, gives 
1,755,773 bales as the consumption of the United States for the cotton 
season of 1879-80. 

Apportioned between the Northern and Southern States, the number 
of spindles, and consumption of cotton during the year ending August 
31st, 1880 (based upon the census of 1880), may be thus stated : 

Number of Bales of Cotton 

Spindles. Consumed. 

Northern States, 10,092,075 " 1,543,720 

Southern States (including Virginia, 
Kentucky, and Missouri), - - - 561,360 212,053 

Entire Country, ----- 10,653,435 1,755-773 

The 756 cotton mills gave employment, during the census year, to 
172,544 persons (exclusive of 2,1 15 officers and clerks). Of these opera- 
tives, 59,685 were men; 15,107, boys; 84,539, women ; and 13,213, girls. 
The working hours were 10 to 11 per day, and the wages for the year 
averaged $244, or 8 1 cents per day for 300 working days. The factories 
not classed as regular cotton mills, but manufacturing mixed goods 
containing a large proportion of cotton, gave employment to 12,928 per- 
sons ; while establishments for printing, dyeing and bleaching cotton 
and mixed goods, employed 12,866 operatives. Add to these the 2,115 
officers and clerks of cotton mills, and the total number of persons en- 
gaged in the different branches of cotton manufacture in 1880, reaches 
200,453. I" 1850 the regular cotton mills gave employment to 94,956 
persons; in i860, to 122,028; and in 1870, to 135,369. It will be ob- 
served that while the number of spindles increased nearly 200 per cent, 
between 1850 and 1880, the number of operatives increased only about 
80 per cent. This is due to the greater efficiency of modern machinery, 
and the growing tendency to concentrate work in large establishments. 

Since 1880, the increase in spindles, by the erection of new mills, and 
enlargement of old establishments, has been very considerable. It is 
estimated that on September ist, 1882, there were fully 11,320,000 spin- 
dles in the Northern, and 830,000 in the Southern States, making a 
total of 12,150,000 spindles in the entire country — an increase of 1,500,000 
spindles within the past two years. 

During the same time, the cotton spindles of Great Britain have ad- 
vanced from 39,750,000, to 41,000,000; and those of the continent of 
Europe, from 20,800,000 to 21,850,000 — an increase of about three per cent. 



for Great Britain, and five per cent, for the continent, against an Amer- 
ican increase of fourteen per cent. 

While the English were the first to use machinery for spinning and 
weaving, the Americans have made many inventions which perfected 
and cheapened the cotton manufacture. All of the American methods 
which possessed merit have been adopted in England, as all English 
improvements have been introduced in America. This interchange of 
the inventive skill of the two countries has been constantly going on, so 
that, at this time, neither can boast of any especial advantages over the 
other, in the matter of patented machinery. 

British machinery, for spinning and weaving, and, in fact, for ail 
purposes directly connected with the cotton manufacture, is considered 
more perfect in its finish and details than that made in the United 
States ; and is used in many of the best appointed mills. American 
steam engines, however, and all appliances for furnishing and regulat- 
ing motive power, are regarded as superior to those of foreign make, 
and are in general use. 

As yet, the American mills manufacture, besides yarns and thread, 
chiefly the coarser descriptions of goods, such as shirtings, sheetings, 
drills, checks, print cloths, bags, etc. Some fine fabrics are made by 
Northern mills, but they are rather the exceptions which prove the gen- 
eral rule. In Great Britain the average consumption of cotton, in the 
year 1 88 1-82, was about 36 lbs. per spindle, while in the United States 
it was about ']'] lbs. This fact illustrates the relative fineness of the 
goods manufactured in the respective countries. It must be said, to 
the credit of American manufacturers, that their goods are generally 
free from adulteration, honestly made, and correctly branded. They 
stand deservedly high in the Chinese and Indian markets, where they 
come in competition with British goods, which are often badly adulter- 
ated with sizing and other filling. The bulk of American cotton 
manufactures are sold for home consumption, the export trade not yet 
having assumed proportions of importance. 

Within the past few years a prominent feature of the cotton manu- 
facturing industry has been its rapid development in the cotton-growing 
States. 

The general recuperation of the South, from the losses entailed by 
the war between the States, and the wretched misgovernment which 
followed in its wake, has been marked by earnest and energetic efforts 
for the establishment of cotton manufacture in this section. Many of 
the Southern municipal and State governments have encouraged the 
movement by granting exemption from taxation of capital employed in 
cotton manufacture. In the year ending August 31st, 1878, the South- 
ern mills took from the crop 147,000 bales of cotton ; and in the 
season of 1881-82, their takings were 287,000 bales — an increase of 95 



per cent. During the same period the Northern mills increased their 
takings of cotton from 1,341,000 to 1,646,000 bales — a gain of about 23 
per cent. 

Southern factories possess the advantages of proximity to the cot- 
ton fields, and a climate whose mildness insures them against those 
interruptions to work, which, in severe winters, are often causes of 
inconvenience and loss to Northern mills. Other advantages over the 
North are cheaper land, (for sites for factories and dwellings for 
operatives), cheaper building material, fuel and labor, and longer work- 
ing hours. Nearness to the cotton fields means not only a saving in 
cost of transportation of the raw material, and the reduction to a mini- 
mum of the inevitable loss in weight by handling, but it means also a 
better selection, and lower prices. Southern mills can buy their cotton 
direct, and save the profits and charges which the Northern mills must 
pay to brokers and middle-men. 

The loss in weight on cotton in transportation to the Northern mills 
is considerable, and to this must be added the loss by the shrinkage in 
weight on the larger stocks of cotton which Northern mills have to 
carry, in consequence of their greater distance from the sources of 
supply. 

The Northern mills certainly possess great advantages in their 
proximity to the large cities which serve as distributing points for their 
production ; in the facilities afforded by the many machine and repair 
shops which have sprung up around them ; and in the better supply of 
skilled labor. It may be fairly questioned, however, if their advantages 
equal those possessed by the mills of the South. 

The cost of transportation to Northern and Western markets of the 
product of Southern mills in excess of what they can sell to their own 
trade, is certainly much less than the freight paid by the Northern mills 
on all the cotton which they use. The additional first cost of machin- 
ery to Southern mills, and perhaps the somewhat greater expense for 
subsequent repairs, are far more than balanced by their cheaper fuel and 
labor, and more certain water-power. It is thought that the dividends 
made by Southern mills in 1881 averaged 14 per cent., while those of 
the Northern mills averaged scarcely 7 per cent, on the capital invested. 

It has long been the general opinion in the Northern States and in 
Europe that cotton manufacture would not prosper in the Southern 
States. In view of the facts that of recent years cotton consumption 
has increased at the South in a greater comparative ratio than at the 
North, and that Southern mills have actually paid larger profits than 
Northern mills, the idea so long cherished must be abandoned. It is 
useless to attempt to maintain mere theories against the logic of accom- 
plished facts. 
1^ Blessed with an unrivalled climate, an abundance of unfailing 



water-power, inexhaustible supplies of coal, iron and lumber, and 
with a soil whose fertility insures abundant and cheap food, why 
should not the Southern States succeed in their efforts to establish cot- 
ton manufacture ? 

It would surely be in accord with a correct system of economy if the 
entire cotton crop of the country could be spun in the section of its 
growth ; and the proportion of it needed for the looms of the world, 
shipped in the shape of yarns instead of cotton. 

Cotton culture and cotton manufacture in this country are capable 
of vast extension. Since 185 1 the extent of the cotton crop has been 
doubled, while American spinners have, within the same time, increased 
their consumption over three hundred per cent. 




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